Gokova Gulf

We needed fuel so we went over to Marmaris where there is a fuel station on the quay. It was a bit daunting as we had to squeeze between two huge billionaire Gin Palaces. Once in, they were very efficient and friendly and the price wasn't extortionate. We finally got under way at 12.30 and headed South out of the bay. The wind was a nice easterly (unusual) so we ditched our initial plan to anchor in the bay just around the headland and decided to press on to Sirce Limani.
It turned out to be a good decision. The isolated bay has a single family running a restaurant, mooring buoys (free but you're expected to have a drink or meal in the restaurant) and even fresh bread delivered to the boat in the morning. Very enterprising, very friendly and lots of character. We will be back.

The next day we did 30 miles to Palamut - cutting the corner through Greek waters around the corner of Symi. I was half expecting a gunboat to turn up at any minute but nobody bothered us. Palamut has the smallest of mini-markets and as we were intending to go into the wilds, we were running seriously short of supplies. The only option seemed to be to divert to Cokertme on the North coast of the Gokova Gulf rather than heading straight down to the Eastern end.

Cokertme turned out to be a surprisingly good anchorage and L went shopping while I sorted the boat. It turned out that there was only a tiny mini-market attached to a Restaurant. She made friends with the owner who had recently had his hand mangled by an SunSail idiot turning on an outboard motor while he was trying to free a line from the propeller - ouch! He pulled some fresh veg from his garden and sold milk & bread. Being an enterprsing soul, she spotted a fisherman cleaning some fish and haggled with him for two of them. Delicious! L insisted on putting the fish bones in the cockpit and sitting there watching the wasps. Made me shudder to look (which I think was the idea). She got her come-uppance by getting stung on the arm and had to scuttle ignominiously down the fore-hatch into Rosa.

We now started exploring more seriously for when Charlotte comes. Our first call was a bay called Golyeri which we had been told was lovely. It WAS nice in a rural sort of way - a herd of cows were grazing on the island - but there was no other sign of human habitation anywhere. Unfortunately, the bottom turned out to be impossible and we couldn't get an anchor to stick - so much for a nice lunch stop. We then went straight to the Seven Islands area leaving a chunk of the South coast still to be explored.

There are several wild anchorages in the area. For our taste, the best were South bay (wonderful turquoise water over a sandy bottom) and North Bay - calm, protected, incredibly clear water, good (if deep) holding and nobody else around. It was so nice that we stayed two days. The pilot indicates a restaurant at the head of the bay but we saw no sign other than a couple of buildings in the trees. We decided to investigate when we left in the morning - Oh big mistake!

The chart indicates shallows at the head of the bay - and I could see the mud bank under the water. But with our lifting keel, I've got a bit careless. I put the keel up and nosed gently in. The (luckily soft) bottom came up like a wall and the bow had grounded long before the depth transducer indicated anything untoward. In no time the wind blew us sideways and we were hard aground on a lee shore! Luckily it was soft silt and weed and a light breeze so we weren't in danger. We loaded the bow anchor and 40 Meters of chain into the dinghy then motored out into deep water, paying out chain as we went. We got the anchor about 25 Meters into the channel and tipped it over the side. With a bit of straining, the windlass pulled us off. Very embarrassing as a large German boat came in to watch the proceedings! This is the first time we've tried this technique and it was rather gratifying, in a squirmy sort of way, that it worked so well.

We went on to English harbour taking in all the bays on the way and finally anchored in the Northern cove. Other than a rather large number of wasps and a fisherman we were alone and had a very peaceful night. Next morning we went down to the South East end of the bay to check out the restaurant and mini-market. Unexpectedly, it turned out to be really nice with laid moorings, a very pretty restaurant and an excellent little shop where We were able to buy a good selection of Veg and some mince & chicken. Stores sorted. There is even a statue of a mermaid on a rock just outside.











Being well stocked, we sailed over to Castle Island. The westerly wind gathered strength quickly and We anchored in 20 Knots of wind with a 1 Meter swell just outside the bay. Some of it crept around the point and reflected off Snake Island making for a rather rolley evening. Safe enough, but uncomfortable.

It had all calmed down by morning and before the tripper boats descended at 11.00, the island was lovely. It's open from 0800 to 1800 costing 10 Lire per person. Cleopatra's beach is great to swim in - although the heavy restrictions about going on the beach itself spoil the atmosphere considerably. The rest of the island is interesting with a well preserved amphitheatre and a temple to Apollo in addition to large city walls, Cisterns, etc. Get there before the crowds to really appreciate it.


We decamped once the grockle arrived in force and sailed the short hop to Sogut. We had several choices but chose to moor at the Yacht Club pontoon. Very friendly and helpful with good facilities. Excellent self-service laundry with a huge machine. Profits go to teach young Turkish sailors. Sogut is a sleepy little village with a couple of markets and restaurants all set in green slopes with clear blue water in the large bay. There is free mooring along the edge of the bay with lines ashore - but there are so many boats there (many looking as if they never move) that it's a daunting prospect to tie up. The other 3 pontoons have a modest charge. A Dolmus to Marmaris twice a day (0730 & 1200) for the princley sum of 5 lire each way.