Around the Peloponese

The first day across the gulf of Patras was a lovely quiet motor. There was hardly a breath of wind and hazy sunshine all the way. We were both torn between loving the freedom and excitement of being off on our travels again and sadness at leaving so many new friends - some of whom we probably won't see again as they are off west and across the Atlantic.

Our first port was Killini - a busy ferry port. There has been a lot of construction recently and there was a huge dredging operation in the bay making it difficult (and probably illegal) to anchor. While we were bobbing around close to the small-boat harbour entrance we heard loud whistling and shouting from a large tugboat. They thought we were running aground as we had drifted into water about 1M deep. We had the keel up (which they didn't know) so we weren't in any danger - but it was very nice of them to warn us as most boats would have been stuck. Apparently the local fishermen do a thriving trade in tow-offs for 100 euros a pop! I went round and thanked them when we were safely tied up.

We wanted to stop next at Katakolon and take a trip to Ancient Olympia. Unfortunately the weather was chasing us and we had to crack on to Kiparissia or risk getting stuck for 2 or 3 days.Kiparissia is largish modern town with an enormous fully-enclosed and free harbour and good shopping. We hired a car for a day and visited Ancient Messinia. This is a classical city with some Roman overlay - quite well preserved and well worth a visit.



We then set out for Nestor's palace - which is apparently the best preserved Maecenean remains in mainland Greece - even mentioned in Homer! We passed through lovely flower-rich countryside and even came across a wild Tortoise. (well actually he wasn't really wild - just a bit cross at being disturbed. Unfortunately, the map was vague and we ended up driving around for two hours before we found the palace - shut! We picked up gas and Diesel, did some shopping and then set of South the next morning.

We were still being chased by a storm and again went much faster than we would have liked. We popped into the amazing Ormos Voidhokoilia which is an almost complete circle of torquise water ringed by sand dunes and guarded at the entrance by rocky headlands. Unfortunately we couldn't stay.

We passed Ormos Navarino and Pilos and then rounded the first finger of the Peloponese at Cape Soukouli with its huge venetian fort and turkish lighthouse. We sailed across the gulf hoping to find shelter in an isolated bay called Port Maratho under Cape Akritas but couldn't find it anywhere!

When we put the engine on, we yet again had no cooling water. We gave up with an hour to spare before sundown and rounded the cape and to the little town of Koroni and had a lovely sheltered night at anchor under this pretty little town.

We discussed the cooling water problem and decided to change or plans and go down to Kalamat and buy a complete new set of cooling pipes and siphon break to try and nail the problem for good. So first thing, We had a lovely sail under Spinaker all the way down. Put the sail down just short of the marina - and yet again no cooling water! Did the usual quick fix and in we went.
While there we made friends with a lovely English couple called Ralf & Kay who took pity on us and ferried us around the town in their car. We got the bits (100 Euro for a bit of plastic!) and I fitted it in the next couple of days. The Marina is OK and the town is rather good - masses of shops selling everything you can imagine. It was made for us by socialising with Kay and Ralf.
We finally left on Thursday at 0700 for the long run to Porto Kayio just around Cape Tainaron - the middle finger of the Peloponese and the most southerly point of mainland Greece. It was fairly uneventful - mostly under motor. We were warned by the pilot that the holding in that bay was not particularly good - and we can confirm that. We spent nearly two hours re-anchoring 7 times without success. Several times it seemed to hold under engine, only to take off when hit by a gust. Eventually, we abandoned the attempt and went over to the North cove where it held first time.

Next day we had a gentle motor and sail over to Elefenaisos just under cape Maleas - the big one. All reports say the cape needs to be treated with great respect as high winds and big seas often occur when it is calm elsewhere. On the way, we were joined by the largest pod of dolfins we have seen so far and, for the first time, they spent a few minutes playing with us. Magic! The cooling failed again when we put the engine on to anchor - Gutted! Two years and I still have no idea what is causing it! We went up to the town to get some supplies but there was only one tiny mini-market open as it is still winter. Spent the night in a beautiful torquise bay with nobody to be seen and only the sound of seabirds and the odd mosquito for company.

It's up at 0400 tomorrow for the long journey round Maleas and on to Milos - 14 hours in all.

More soon if we make it...